Camino de Santiago ☞

Come with me on this impromptu journey across 130 miles of the Spanish countryside.

My Camino journey really starts a month before hitting the trail. Unlike people who fell in love on Valentine’s day, I fell down the stairs pretty painfully spraining my ankle. This had me laid up in bed for about two weeks. Thankfully, I recovered pretty quickly and decided to follow through with my pipe dream of hiking the Camino during my Spring holiday.

Most people would have read blog posts, books etc. to prepare for a multi-day experience. Sadly this was not me. I wanted to keep my bag light because I was worried about putting too much pressure on my ankle. I also thought it was going to be like backpacking where everyone brought uncomfortably few things. I left with the mindset, “It’s only going to be a few days, I can tolerate anything for a few days”. I sure did make it but my ideas were pretty off base. My new friends were laughing about my lack of a blanket, towel, pack cover for the rain, and proper footwear. I on the other hand was pretty stoked to find the stuff I needed. And those theme park looking bright blue flip flops they teased me about? They later bought some of those legendary flip flops as a souvenir. Imitation is the greatest form of flattery.

Ponferrada, Where my trail began

Like any good adventure, this one got off to a rocky start. I was able to get a ride from Salamanca to Ponferrada, a small city known for its caste as seen left. I planned a connection to take me further down the trail but that didn’t work out and at about 3 pm I realized I better start walking! This added another day to my trip but it was well worth it, I met some amazing people who I would not have met otherwise.

The Weather

Overall the weather was pretty good. I met some people on the second day which took my mind off the drizzle and rain. They casually mentioned that the trail was going to end with a 8 kilometer uphill climb, which since I hadn’t been planning to do this part of the trail, I was unaware of. The rain was really coming down at this point- the steep incline made the water just rush right into your shoes. But at the top, the rain started to break and this was the view of the surrounding area. This view was all it took for me to stay motivated to keep going all the way to the top!

The Food

For one or two Euros you can get a nice hot Café con Leche, coffee with milk which I would usually get after walking for about two hours. Breakfasts were usually only a few Euros some places had more options but bread, eggs, Torrilla de Patatas, bacon/ ham, was typical. At most restaurants- lunch and dinner menus would have Menu del día, which usually included three courses. . In the afternoon after we decided we didn’t want to walk anymore we would find a place to have drinks. Sometimes we would migrate to a place for dinner or settle into the first place we find and order food and drinks over a few hours before heading back to the albergue. I have never walked so much or drank so much wine; both were lovely! The wine helped take away those aches from the day and always helped me fall right to sleep in those big dorm bunk rooms despite sometimes earth shaking snoring!

My Itinerary

The Trail

The trail varies greatly. You might start the morning by walking two hours along the shoulder of the highway protected by high barriers after lunch be walking through a beautiful oak forest, and finish your day in a village town. Although I wouldn’t say that the whole trail is beautiful and sometimes it does get boring there is a lot of variety on French Way. There are a few photos above that are notable. In the second row on the left- is the Monastery of Samos. This Monastery is a albergues but I did not stay here. The photo in the bottom middle was taken from a very high bridge on the way to Portomarín. Walking the Camino is not always about the trail but about people that you meet along the way.

On the left is a Horreo (one of many names) or a grain holder. These were dotted along the trail and were typically square or retangular and had a pitched roof. Some where decorated and some like the one on the left were primative. These date back to the medieval times. They are built on stone pillars to prevent rodents from eating the grain and to prevent mold in this moist and damp climate in Galicia. All of them have slate for ventilation. It was fun seeing them as I walked.

Souvenirs

I recently learned that word souvenirs in French means memories. I think that is very fitting, you can see my souvenirs below but I’ll always carry my memories with me.

After 215 kilometers… I made it!

Semana Santa

The Camino is a popular trail almost all year with people hiking it in Spring, Summer, and Fall. The week of Easter which is called Semana Santa, or Holy week, is one of the most popular times to walk the Camino. In 2022, it was a holy year that called many people to make this religious pilgrimage. If you want to avoid crowded trails and packed albergues (Hostels for the night) then I suggest not walking around Easter time, especially the trail closest to Santiago. I did walk the Camino during Semana Santa and while I can’t say that I loved the crowds it was very exciting to see all the traditions and celebrations in one of the holiest places in Spain. During Semana Santa, there are processions as seen below. The purple Capitrote which is worn by Penitents who are in groups such as the Nazarenos, this is a Spanish tradition dating back to the Spanish Inquisition. I have heard several different meanings for the Capitrote. That the point is directed upward towards God. The covering of the face is to represent shame for the sins throughout the year. I have heard that it is supposed to bring attention to God instead of the sinner.

Santiago

Due to some hastily bought shoes and poor decision making- I had two bloody toes which lead to missing toenails down the road. I ended up wearing my kitchy flip-flops around Santiago because I couldn’t bare to put on my shoes again. Before I hobbled on home, I did go to the Santiago Cathedral Museum which was amazing. I was able to see religious art ranging from robes, to tapestries, to giant bells for the towers. I found the explanations of the reconstructions and the discoveries that were made in that process the most interesting. I highly recommend this museum regardless if you do the walk! From certain parts of the Museum you could see onto the square below (as seen in the pictures below) and you could also hear the cheering of Pilgrams just finishing their journey.

Inside the Cathedral

I have never been to a more ornate Cathedral in my life. The pictures below are of the main chamber but there were many other rooms that are equally as lavish. If you look at the people in the picture on the right you will see how large this chamber is. The photo on the left is as close as I could get. It is fairly overwhelming visually between the paintings, angels, gold, and stone. In the photo on the left, you can see the Botafamerio in Galician and Thurible in English (the silver ‘ball’ hanging from the ceiling) which holds in-scents. The Botafamerio in the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral is the most famous in the world because it is the largest in the world. The middle photo is the tomb of Saint James. His body is in that box at the end of the chamber. Some people have thrown papers or put pictures of loved ones through the bars that lead to Saint James’ remains.

The End of the Trail

I enjoyed seeing some of Santiago and would have enjoyed exploring the city more. I spent my time celebrating and saying goodbye to friends and wishing I did not have to return to a ‘normal life’. While I did not get absolution from my experience, I thought critically about how I could start each day without the weight of my past mistakes and unrealistic expectations for myself. I hope to have fewer expectations, take advantage of opportunities that come my way, and most of all- be present when spending time with people. Enjoy that time you have to share together. I hope that you get the chance to walk the Camino and have time to reflect, grow, and just have some time for yourself. As it’s common to say on the trail, Buen Camino- have a good Journey. Seek good intentions.

Special thanks to the Flip Flop Squad (A, C, C, S, S) wouldn’t have made it without you.